I have used a rigid Sunnen Hone to recondition many blocks where I could get pistons in .010 over the current bore. Many of them were single cylinder Kohler engines from Cub Cadets but I have also taken .020" out of a Ford 391 and .030" from a Chevy 250.
Use coarse stones dry until you are about .002 from the final desired size. Then use a medium stone with oil until you are about .0005 - .001 from the final desired size. Then finish off with the proper fine stones with oil to get the proper piston fit and finish on the cylinder walls.
The most I have taken out is .250" in one cylinder in a Continental engine in a Massey Harris 101 Senior. The cylinder had a crack so I honed it out and pressed in a repair sleeve and then took that sleeve back to standard bore.
My 2444 has .010 over pistons in it since I wanted to leave the cylinders as small as possible to allow for additional overhauls in the future. There was one cylinder that did not clean up completely, there was a spot about the size of a nickle that still showed a bit of wear. I chose to leave it rather than going .020" over. If I had sent the block out to a machine shop I'm sure they would have bored it to .030" and not been concerned about future overhauls.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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