I have a set "mocked up" right now, to my ford/new holland 4630. I found a 3 pt fork set from agrisupply this summer, a lot less than new with shipping. Well, they will tolerate quite a bit actually, but I did tear one tine from the A-frame lift pin and top link mast, either the weight, or I dug in and caught something under a log. A neighbor took a huge tree down, had a crane service come in to load out all the logs, job site was to be left clean so he had no work to do after, like he's done so many times before. I said I'd take all of it, butt logs included. It was an impromptu job that came up, no time to prepare. I received all the logs, moved across the lane to stage them, but the 2nd to last one was when the one tine started to fail, so I had to get the loader tractor and roll them off the lawn, then skid, then roll them again, no big deal and the repair I can do.
I kept an eye out for forks on CL, figured I'd get some used fork lift tines, fabricate a frame, find a salvage mast and or related parts from a forklift or similar. Fork tines are listed from time to time, but there really was nothing else showing up, until last friday.
I saw this used set of Woods DuAl pallet forks, with the universal loader mounts for 1" pins on CL, $450. I knew this is exactly what I need to move logs and a myriad of other tasks, but mostly logs for firewood. I went and picked them up.
First thing I did was move the brackets to make a flange connection and to get the u-clamp bolts away from the lift arm ends, so as not to deform the threads when attaching/removing. I replaced the Cat 1 lift arm balls with Cat 2, got a pair of 1" hitch pins, and that takes care of the lift arm mounts. Mind you, I need spacer washers and I'd like to place thin bushings over the pins as there is a bit of play in the lift balls as Cat 2 lift pins are 1 1/8"
I aligned the mounting brackets to the lift arms and set the stabilizer bars for the lift arms, one hole in from max width, left 4" on each side of the fork frame at the outer brackets. I left 3" between each bracket, shortening the span on the pins to lessen the chance of them deflecting under heavier loads, but leaving some wiggle room to connect the lift arms. Using the upper pair of 1" aligned holes on the brackets, I plan to use 3" x 4"x 1/4" wall thickness rectangle steel tube for uprights, then span across those with same to make a top link flange to pin through. I believe the height of that to be 24" from center of lower lift pins and in the same plane. I'll drill the tube, fasten with 2 bolts stacked, each side, so the mast will be firmly mounted as will the top link when connected.This also avoids modifying the OEM frame, just adding a new piece to it is all. Only thing I am considering is the top link hole or holes to achieve adequate tilt to retain the load, but also be able to level and tilt the forks enough to slip under logs. I am not sure if I'd like multiple holes or the standard Cat 2 geometry will provide that, so I'll have to mock that up too. I'd like a hydraulic top link eventually, but for now it will have to do as this took all of my "implement money" LOL !
One feature of this set will be I can break these down and load by hand into a truck if needed. You still may need a helper, but you don't need a tractor/loader to lift it all at once.
PS, you may notice the bent round stock that the forks hang off of, I got a replacement in the deal.
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Today's Featured Article - A Brief History of Tractors in Australia - by Bob Kavanagh. After Captain Cook's exploration of the east coast in 1770 the British Government decided to establish a penal colony in Australia. The first fleet arrived in 1788 and consisted mainly of convicts who were poorly equipped and new little of farming techniques. The colony remained far from self-supporting and it was not until the early 1800's that things started to improve. Free settlers started to arrive, they followed the explorers across the mountains and where land was suitable set up farms. T
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