You'll take the screws out of the chrome cover, the cover will come off, there will be a splined coupling and a large spring, may be held with a snap ring. Remove all that, then there will be a couple of large nuts, jammed together. Those hold the hub on the spindle tube, also where the bearings are preloaded, a critical value when reassembling.
No telling what you'll find when this comes apart... Might be everything will clean up, and go back with new seals and fresh grease. But... Chances are there may be water damage, bad bearings, u joint problems, ball joint wear, etc. Not an area you want to shortcut or have to revisit! Just be prepared, you might want to have some extra funds ready just in case.
If the rotors have been hot and are warped, best replace them. Because they bolt on to the hubs, they won't be too expensive. The tag inside the door will give the front axle weight rating, you'll need this info to get the right parts.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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