You are correct in that wide gap opens points earlier (sparks earlier) but at the expence of less coil saturation. Closing of the points just decides how long the coil gets saturated. DWEll means how long points are closed saturating coil. Point gap is just a close estimate if you don't have a dwell meter. Both measurements are designed to give the best coil saturation and nothing more. Then set initial timing for best start by turning dist. When setting up the distributor in my "66 GTO, I first set dwell and then hook up tach. and timing light. Apply timing tape to crank damper. No vacuum advance (race only) By varying mech. advance springs/weights. I run the rpm up to 2500 and set max timing at 34 degrees, then back down by 500 rpm increments to verify a proportionally even gradual drop. Done with different shaped weights/springs. Then initial timing is always set for best starting. Forget what the manual says , the engine knows best what it wants to start the best and that's all initial timing is for. This is for drag racing only. You want it to start good and accelerate at wot best. Acceleration wants a lot of advance and in early. Steady speed driving not so much.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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