If your bolt is functioning as a conductor, replace it. If your bolt is functioning as a fastener and other more conductive parts provide the conductive path, you are likely OK to leave it.
Electricity will always take the least resistive path so if that path is there, in any application, it will go that way. Said another way, if Stainless is present in a conductive path or assembly but other more conductive paths exist, it is likely a mute point. (I should point out if the SS is acting as a parallel conductor it will conduct but at a lessor amount compared to it more conductive parallel conductive partner. There is an equation for this.) A good example would be the battery post and clamp so common on auto and tractor batteries. The bolt provides a clamping function and does not participate in conduction. In that application I would not hesitate to use a SS bolt and nut if that is what I had.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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