If your bolt is functioning as a conductor, replace it. If your bolt is functioning as a fastener and other more conductive parts provide the conductive path, you are likely OK to leave it.
Electricity will always take the least resistive path so if that path is there, in any application, it will go that way. Said another way, if Stainless is present in a conductive path or assembly but other more conductive paths exist, it is likely a mute point. (I should point out if the SS is acting as a parallel conductor it will conduct but at a lessor amount compared to it more conductive parallel conductive partner. There is an equation for this.) A good example would be the battery post and clamp so common on auto and tractor batteries. The bolt provides a clamping function and does not participate in conduction. In that application I would not hesitate to use a SS bolt and nut if that is what I had.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that�s wha
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