The little propane/butane/MAPP torches simply do not put out the BTUs to really heat up a block, head, or even the stud. In the past, I have used oxy-acetylene with a cutting tip (not to cut, but for the BTU output) and heated the area around a stud. A few taps on the end with a small hammer also helps. Best to avoid breaking it if at all possible. Be gentle and do not apply enough force to break it off. Another thing that can help if a stud is broken off near the casting is to use a reverse sharpened drill. I have had broken bolts spin right out almost as soon as I started drilling.
BTW, it is unlikely that you would ever heat it up enough to warp a valve seat or exhaust port.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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