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Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: Tie me tractor down boys


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Posted by The tractor vet on April 07, 2015 at 13:43:01 from (104.179.81.68):

In Reply to: Tie me tractor down boys posted by phil_n on April 07, 2015 at 10:30:40:

So you got your first tractor and you want to HAUL IT . Yep everybody is going to tell ya there way . Well when it comes to hauling IRON and since i have over fifty years of doing so to me there is only one way to haul IRON and that is with a CHAIN AND BINDER . Some guys like snap binders and some like ratchet binders . As for me i have come to like the ratchet binders. As to hauling your FORD tractor two chains will do IF you use 5/16ths grade 70 chains and binders . Now would I only go with two chains and binders NOPE one never knows what may happen on the road and it is best to be ready for anything . If you are renting a GOOSENECK trailer which is best for handling and ease of towing you would want to center the back axle of the tractor center of the two trailer aaxles or as we would say center of trunion. As for chaining down one chain over top of the draw bar in ft. of the draw bar support so that the chain can not slide back , next up and over the ft. axle in a way that will keet the chain away from the sheetmetal. You want the back chain pulling back a little at about a 30to 45 degree angle from the draw bar and to the stake pockets or D rings what ever the trailer has for chaining . If it is stake pockets then you want to drop the chain down behind the rub rail on the back side of the stake pocket and down and around the bottom and back up the ft. of the stake pocket and either hook the hook to the stake pocket or back to the chain . Hooking back to the chain can at times be helpful as this way you can gain or loose a half link. to get the correct pull down when using a snap binder You wan to pull the back of the tractor back and you set your ft. chains the same way Except when you drop them down around the stake pocket you want to drop down on the ft. side of the pocket and come up the back side then you want to get the correct chain angle here also and you pull the tractor ahead. . Over the years i have found that when you pull the back down first then the ft down last they stay better and you have less retighting of chains . . NOW keep this in mind IF this tractor has a loader on it then you must add one chain over top of the bucket or forks , IF you have something hanging on the three point like a brush hog plow disc or what ever you must have a chain over that also . Now some will tell ya ya need four chains and four binders on bigger stuff yes and what they do not know is ya also need to add extra chains for hold back . So if someone wants to be nit picky then you would need five chains and binders . But it all comes down to this , the trucking laws are so messed up that nobody really knows what is what and everybody reads it different . I did some heavy hauling for KEEN and some as i called it FEATHER Merchant hauling where the loads were under what i normally hauled . I hauled some brand new Cat Skid Steers one time and KEEN required that each skid steer on the load had to have FIVE chains and binder and i had a load of five new ones to haul and with twenty chains and binder on the truck i was short and was forced to buy five chains nd binders off of them at a 150 bucks a set X five . Three chains and binders were more then enough on each one but no they had to have the four plus one . Now if your going to use a bumper pull for a five hundred mile junt load placement is critical and it will be the fast way to get and education if it is not as the tail will wag the dog. and myself i would not want to be on the interstate with a bumper pull thinking i can run 70 MPH and you had best have WORKING BRAKES and lights .


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