It isn't always fast and simple but the problem can be found without disassembling or replacing until you luck out. A volt meter belongs in everyone's tool collection. You can buy one for $10 that should last several years if it's not thrown around. A test light works pretty well on this and some other problems. Build a test light by soldring wires with probes to a 12 volt bulb and wrap connections with tape. Whichever you use for this problem,the probes shoulb be sharp as a pencil to make contact easier on dirty metal. The circuit must be on as in load applied. It takes two people being VERY CAUTOUS to prevent engine unexpectedly turning over or machine moving if starter suddenly engages while machine is in gear. I prefer disconnecting hot cable from starter and connecting to a heater motor or other large load,especially while teaching a newbee or youngster. While the system (starter in this case)is in fail mode,touch one probe to center of battery post and other to cable,do both + and - posts/cables. If cable is coroded meter reads between 1 and 12volts or light glows. Everywhere there is a connection,cable to motor/body/frame,switch,plugs ect is tested the same way. If the voltage or light glow doesn't make sense,think of it this way. If you connect a light bulb to the pos and neg battery posts,the light glows. Break either wire at any point or filiment burns out and the meter will read voltage or test light glows when connected between break. I've also heard that cussing helps.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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