NO! it should not coaast in High range. The Hydro will hold back/stop the tractor on a hill.Leave at full throttle and just pull the lever back just as you would normally slow down.Easy test:While stopped (In high range) step hard on the brakes.At full throttle,push the lever completely foreward. That should stall or severely overload the engine.As fair as "expencive" to overhaul the transmission....no,not really. No more costly than any other transmission on any other gear drive tractor.Especially a JD powershift. And nobody ever seems to complain/badmouth those.Contrary to popular belief,you can 'farm' with em. However,they tend to use more fuel than a gear drive. That is because you set the throttle at pto/rated speed and use the lever to speed up/slow down.The hydro 'unit' is basicly nothing more than a hydralic pump and hydralic motor. they need good/adequet oil flow to work properly.Just put in Low range and rated or pto speed and plow. if hard pulling,wide open..I've been sitting on my 826Hydro the last several days 'stirring dirt'.I've owned 3 hydros(826.1026,Hydro 100).And I've been around/driven numerous hydros all my life.Plowed/worked ground all day long for days......Love those Hydros!
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Ford 600 Series - by Staff. The Ford 600 Series tractors bean production in 1954, and continued until 1957. Quite similar to the Ford NAA (Golden Jubilee) in design, it used the same 132 cubic inch Red Tiger engine with 31 horsepower. Several different models were made in the 600 Series, and these numbers were used to denote whether they used a particular transmission, hydraulic system, or PTO. The result was five different model numbers: 620, 630, 640, 650 and 660. These break down as follows:
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