Posted by Texasmark1 on March 23, 2015 at 18:14:04 from (162.72.24.91):
In Reply to: Re: Changing oil posted by Bret4207 on March 23, 2015 at 15:24:58:
Go ahead and laugh. I don't add oil on any of my engines (2 excepted) between changes except my '63 2000 Ford Diesel and I got it that way. It and the '65 3000 get 15-40 Rot-T. Add a quart about every 6 months or so to the 2000. 3750ish hours on original engine. Bought it back about 1995 from a dealer in Abilene, TX. where there is a lot of dust.
The 3000 came to me with no compression due to the PO didn't know that you had to connect the intake manifold to the air cleaner to keep the dust out of the engine, especially in a hazard environment. It was my first diesel and I didn't know that if you needed ether to start in April in N. Texas, you had lousy compression. So I did an inframe on it at about 5800 hrs. That was about 15 years ago or so.
The rest are much newer and get synthetic (including my lawn mowers) which evaporates very little. I don't add oil to any of these between changes except for a Kohler 17.5 that leaks it out in a JD L110 lawn mower. Besides I'll be dead before I wear any of them out.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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