huh, why in the world would you pull a head without a compression check???, standard procedure on any engine. sure you can change all that stuff but without the points and timing set correctly and firing order correct you can have a HORRIBLE miss, as the spec's must be followed and you did not conferm that this is done. you did not even say if it ran like this before the parts replacement. we have very little info here. not even the compression #'s for each cyl. and also on a complete tune up valve adjustment should be done. as the valve seats wear the clearance between rocker and valve stem is decreased causing the valve not to close fully and then result in a burnt valve. with dist in correct position # 1 cyl. is at two oclock position then 3 4 2 to follow. clockwise. when properly timed the little point screw with the wire going to the coil on the side will be sitting right at 3 oclock position. that's correct dist location right from factory.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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