"after pulling the head we can see that the cylinder walls are very nice , you can see see cross hatch from a hone .." This statement causes me some concern.. As cross hatching should disappear with time accumulating on the engine, so, several things come to mind. 1) If the engine is a fresh rebuild, the rings have not seated in. 2) The rings are stuck in the piston grooves from sitting. 3) Cylinders were honed to much for standard rings to be used. A dry compression test and then a wet compression test ( pour a little oil into each cylinder ) should revel the offending cylinder or cylinders if the compression increases dramatically. BTW, I prefer to do compression test after the engine has been warmed up to operating temperatures. If you know that the rings/ valves are not the problem ( all compression tests are within 10 lbs of each other and close to required compression ) then I would use a infrared thermometer to see if all exhaust ports are the same temperature. A lower temperature on one cylinder exhaust indicates either a vacuum leak or an ignition failure in that cylinder and further testing would need to be done to determine which is the cause of the problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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