See this is the problem. On the Detroit it had 300,000+ miles on it and it was a 1975 model truck. The valve guides were wore and so were the rings so oil got by them because it thinned down when it warmed up and that is what caused it to run away.
Now the tractor part.
I have an Oliver 1550 diesel with 3200 hours and a Long 900 with 1200 hours and a Case 930 with 5000 hours but was rebuilt @4800 hours. And my 96 F350 7.3 with 124,000 miles on it. All of these are good running and no oil useage engines that are very far from being wore out. But all of them will not hold oil pressure when they warm up with 30 or 40W Rotella, BTDT and it costs to much to try again, And the truck got 15/40 Rotella and it will NOT run right with it in it. 3 1/2 gal of oil plus $10 filter =$65 oil change to do over, No thank you. I will stick to what works for me.
The biggest problem is this ALL the oil you buy today is made for new engines coming off the line witch are totally different than what I need for my older engines. Different engines specks different oils simple as that. And again I have tried Rotella and it just don't work for me. Bandit
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that�s wha
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