Originally it used GL-1 90 weight mineral oil. If you are using it in cold weather then you way want to use 10w30 engine oil so the hydraulics will work faster in cold weather. The GL-1 will work in cold weather it just requires warming up before the hydraulics will work very fast,but letting a tractor warm up in the cold before using it is a good idea anyway. Some say to use modern universal hydraulic fluids but lots of them are not yellow metal safe and the transmission in your tractor has bronze and brass in the transmission. The GL-1 is available at TSC in two gallon jugs. It says Ford tractor mineral oil or you can go to Napa and buy it in five gallon jugs. After draining all three drain plugs under your tractor, remove the bottom bolt where the hydraulic dipstick is. Pour about a gallon in and wait ten to fifteen minutes and pour the next one in. If your pour it in too fast the oil will run out on the clutch and brake shoes. Pour it in until oil starts to run out of the bottom bolt hole where the dipstick is. That is slightly lower than the full mark on the dipstick but it will keep the oil from running out on your brake shoes and clutch from worn seals.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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