Mornin neighbor, good question: When wiring a GM 3 wire alternator to prevent feedback which might allow the gas engine to run even with the IGN turned off (alternator back feeds ignition coil), I have used:
1) Resistors in the 10 ohms or so range and even though such power isn't required, I might use a 5 or 10 watt just because they have bigger stronger leads which may be easier to wire and attach.
2) Incandescent small tail/marker light bulbs because their resistance can prevent run on PLUS they serve as a charge indicating "Idiot Light" My friend Bob M has, I believe, placed a resistor in parallel with the bulb so if the bulb burns out it still works.
3) Diodes anywhere in the 3 to 10 amp range with a voltage withstand rating of maybe 50 or more volts. Again, a bigger unit (though not needed) will have bigger stronger leads. Rat Shack has them. DONT FORGET THEY ARE POLARITY SENSITIVE so wire them with the - towards the alternator.
Ive even had some tractors that didn't run on EVEN WITH NO DIODES and I've seen them with much higher (then 5 or 10 ohms) ohms resistors that still worked.
Resistor or an incandescent idiot light or a diode will work, your money your tractor your choice.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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