Posted by Janicholson on November 11, 2014 at 16:32:11 from (74.60.94.18):
In Reply to: 1959 Ford 881 SOS posted by tommyedge1 on November 11, 2014 at 15:40:31:
59 fords have a voltage dropping ignition wire (pink I think) that reduces the original voltage to about 4 or so when running the engine. The starter relay has a bypass circuit that feeds the coil battery voltage when cranking to allow good starting. If this resistor wire has been replaced with real copper wire, the coil will receive full 12 volts. If not, the coil will still look like it has 12 volts to it until the points close. At that time the load on the (pink)wire increases and the real voltage to the coil might be less than needed.
With that info in mind, do the following: Disconnect the wire from the small terminal going to the distributor. Turn on the key and measure voltage on both sides of the coil. (should be 12+ volts both places, if the coil is bad, there might be no voltage on the disconnected side). with a jumper, ground the terminal on the coil that is not connected (from step 1). (no more than one minute) Now read the voltages on both sides of the coil. If there is 12v+ on the Key side, and nothing on the grounded side all is Kinda good. If there is less than 12v on the key side (more like 6 or 7) there is a resistor in that wire as alluded to above. If the coil now on the truck is a 12volt for use with a external resistor, all might still be OK. Disconnect the ground wire from the coil as used above. and shut off the key. If the coil is marked 12v no resistor required, the coil is incorrect (assuming you found less than 12v in the previous step). That coil needs no resistor, and the Pink wire is a resistor. No resistor and a coil that needs one will burn points very quickly. Next use a test light hooked from the battery non grounded post, to the wire disconnected from the coil. The light will probably light up. It should if the points are closed. Remove the cap and use a plastic knife handle (because it is an insulator) to open the points just a little. The light should now go out. If it does not, the connection inside the distributor to the points is shorted to ground, or the point that moves id accidentally grounded. If you now crank the engine with the coil main high voltage wire grounded, the light should flash as the points open and close. If not check the point setting again, it must be set with the rubbing block at the high point of the distributor cam. If the light does flash, the points are working. Reconnect the wire to the dist. from the coil, reconnect the high voltage wire to the cap, put the rotor and cap back on, and try it. These are the steps I would take to analyze the issue. Let us know. Jim
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