Will the brakes flow fluid out of the front caliper bleeders by gravity? As a mechanic for years if I replaced a brake caliper or even rear cylinder this is what I would do. Disconnect the line and reasonably quick reconnect the new caliper. Then open the bleeder as I was remounting it. I would watch the bleeder it would bubble at first then start to flow solid fluid then I would close it. Then when I was ready to bleed a few pumps to seat the caliper to the pads, then one pump with an assistant to bleed for good measure. If I was in bind working by myself the gravity bleed was generally enough to give you good pedal. Maybe rig up a piece of 1" pipe 12" long with fittings or a hose to adapt it to the lines at the master cylinder and try to force a gravity bleed. I'm not sure how well that will work with the rear since you say you have residual valves in those which I think are those little rubber one way reed valve type deals. I'm also wondering if you are mounting the calipers orientated as they would have been on the Must II? This needs to be so the bleeder hole is at the top to get the trapped air out. Lastly you say the one inch master is the size recommended by the mfg. I'm wondering how that size compares to a stock Must II application for the calipers your using. And also how close the size of your rear cyl are to that same application. If that recommended size came from a computer please remember that the info coming out is only as good as the info someone put in. Hope this helps vehicle problems that seem to go beyond the norm can be very frustrating.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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