I had a 1010 crawler for many years. I had a similar problem with the right steering clutch. In order to fix it properly I opened the chain and remover the clutch/brake assembly. I soon discovered that the clutch pact steel discs were badly rusted and the fiber spacers were badly glazed and some cracked. The entire clutch pack was replaced on the advice of a very good local dealer as well as the bearing. He also loaned me the clutch pack height gage for adjusting the unit. At the same time the brake band was totally degreased with a product called "trichlor" which dissolved all the grease. This is no longer available to the general public Seals were also changed. You will be surprised at the wear that goes on inside those units. When back together it was like brand new. The same thing was done on the left side. Both drain holes were cleaned out as well. Since the rear end is vunerable to rain etc. make sure that you keep the machine under cover or a good tarp over it. You are lucky with the 6 way blade, I had to manually angle or tilt my blade. Then I graduated to a nearly new 350D hydraulic 6 way blade, one of the last made.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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