I have straightened a barn and a house that were that bad or worse by drilling a couple of holes up as high as possible under the eave on each end and running cable through the hole, then clamp the cable to a piece of 2 7/8'' or larger pipe that is approximately the same width as the building, then hook the free end of the cables to a heavy tractor and pull the pipe up against the end of the building and pull a little more, just until you hear timbers groan a little, set the brakes and let the building settle over night then repeat as many days as required until you have the building back up where you want it plus a little more. After the building is up where you want it brace the inner walls on the previously sagging end with something substantial like 2'' X 12'' diagonals and 3/4'' marine plywood, screwed with plenty of 3 1/2'' deck screws, not nailed, do the same in the loft if it has one and check the foundation to be sure it does not need shoring up on the previously leaning end, repair the foundation if required then slowly release the tractor load and the building should relax slightly but mostly stay in place.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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