I have straightened a barn and a house that were that bad or worse by drilling a couple of holes up as high as possible under the eave on each end and running cable through the hole, then clamp the cable to a piece of 2 7/8'' or larger pipe that is approximately the same width as the building, then hook the free end of the cables to a heavy tractor and pull the pipe up against the end of the building and pull a little more, just until you hear timbers groan a little, set the brakes and let the building settle over night then repeat as many days as required until you have the building back up where you want it plus a little more. After the building is up where you want it brace the inner walls on the previously sagging end with something substantial like 2'' X 12'' diagonals and 3/4'' marine plywood, screwed with plenty of 3 1/2'' deck screws, not nailed, do the same in the loft if it has one and check the foundation to be sure it does not need shoring up on the previously leaning end, repair the foundation if required then slowly release the tractor load and the building should relax slightly but mostly stay in place.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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1965 International Harvester McCormick Farmall cub tractor 2,500. Two owner tractor. My grandfather bought new in 1966, then we inherited it. Have all the paperwork original manual and all maintenance records. It starts and moves. Comes with underbelly mower, plough, and some other attachments.
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