I have straightened a barn and a house that were that bad or worse by drilling a couple of holes up as high as possible under the eave on each end and running cable through the hole, then clamp the cable to a piece of 2 7/8'' or larger pipe that is approximately the same width as the building, then hook the free end of the cables to a heavy tractor and pull the pipe up against the end of the building and pull a little more, just until you hear timbers groan a little, set the brakes and let the building settle over night then repeat as many days as required until you have the building back up where you want it plus a little more. After the building is up where you want it brace the inner walls on the previously sagging end with something substantial like 2'' X 12'' diagonals and 3/4'' marine plywood, screwed with plenty of 3 1/2'' deck screws, not nailed, do the same in the loft if it has one and check the foundation to be sure it does not need shoring up on the previously leaning end, repair the foundation if required then slowly release the tractor load and the building should relax slightly but mostly stay in place.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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