I hope you aren't thinking of putting a second layer over your existing shingles. This is always a bad idea, but it's particularly bad if you're using metric-sized architectural shingles over three-tab. Tear off all the old shingles and repair the sheathing. Rather than replace the bad sheathing, you can put a layer of 7/16" OSB over the existing sheathing.
I've done a lot of roofs with three-tab, but it wasn't until a couple of years ago that I used architectural shingles. The price difference between architectural and three-tab isn't enough these days to justify using the cheaper three-tab shingles. I will never do another roof with three-tab unless I have to match some existing shingles.
It's easy to see why roofers like the metric architectural shingles: you can be REALLY SLOPPY and still come out with a decent-looking roof. With three-tab, you can easily see if the roofer took his time or not. Architectural shingles can be cut just about anywhere and put down crooked and nobody will be the wiser. The metric shingles are significantly larger, so you use fewer shingles and drive fewer nails per square compared to three-tab.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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