I try to avoid heating a metric shaft profile tube if at all possible. First line of attack is a good penetrant. I use 'combustion chamber cleaner'... that stuff will eat it's way through the dried grease and soften everything up. Apply it, tap the tubes with a hammer, apply more, etc. If it doesn't loosen, then hook onto the end of the shaft with a tractor or whatever is handy and tension it up. I use a chain to hook to the shaft. Once you draw it tight, then start pounding on the outer yolk. It will usually give up. This is assuming the shaft isn't just bent. If that's the case... either drive the pins out that retain it in the yolk or cut the welds where the tube is joined to the yolk. If you do that MARK where each profile is located on the yolk or at least have the presence of mind to correctly phase the shaft yolks before you weld the second one in place.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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