Lou, I hear ya but keep in mind you dont have to remove any or all of the lead in a .22 barrel to keep it rust free. A dry patch to remove the fouling will do the most to stop rust. If you are still worried, pull a oiled patch through the barrel, problem solved. If you have a coating of lead in your barrel (you wont but lets just say you do), it cant rust under it, rust needs air to form. And if you oiled the barrel like I said above, its no different than if the lead isnt there. The lead doesnt change anything. Clean the action to your hearts content, doing that does not affect the accuracy of the .22. But again, develop your own religion, thats what makes .22s such a difficult sport, that and not being able to reload for them.
Keep in mind the link you just gave me is not for the .22 rimfire that everybody is talking about. .22 WRF is a whole different animal. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.22_Winchester_Rimfire You cant use that as your proof that a jacketed .22 is being made because thats different than what everybody is talking about.... just saying....
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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