Lou, I hear ya but keep in mind you dont have to remove any or all of the lead in a .22 barrel to keep it rust free. A dry patch to remove the fouling will do the most to stop rust. If you are still worried, pull a oiled patch through the barrel, problem solved. If you have a coating of lead in your barrel (you wont but lets just say you do), it cant rust under it, rust needs air to form. And if you oiled the barrel like I said above, its no different than if the lead isnt there. The lead doesnt change anything. Clean the action to your hearts content, doing that does not affect the accuracy of the .22. But again, develop your own religion, thats what makes .22s such a difficult sport, that and not being able to reload for them.
Keep in mind the link you just gave me is not for the .22 rimfire that everybody is talking about. .22 WRF is a whole different animal. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.22_Winchester_Rimfire You cant use that as your proof that a jacketed .22 is being made because thats different than what everybody is talking about.... just saying....
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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