Biggest deal with the starting engines, or from what I have experienced with them, is people don't take good care of them, all of them like plenty of fuel, good spark, good compression, so if its maintained in good tune, at least with the vertical type, you can easily start them with a hand crank. Check out the old D7 1T below, (oddly enough, with that serial number it was a rare armored model during WWII). At about 1:36 in. he hand cranks the starting engine. Mine used to start the same way couple of turns with the hand crank. This particular one is in nice operating condition, runs as it should and everything works like it should, the sound of the D8800 with a straight pipe is something you don't hear much today !
On the 212, I found one video, showing what one should sound and or run like.
****Now I realize you and many here more than likely have experienced these starting engines, so I post for Bryce's benefit mostly LOL !****
Sure as heck, a poorly operating starting engine can and will be a real pain and be frustrating without any doubt.
Where he lives, I'd prefer a starting engine over direct electric start. Keep it in top operating condition, it will allow that diesel plenty of time to spin, warm up, oil pressure/oil circulation, warm the coolant, condition the motor to start easily in low temperatures provide its in decent operating condition.
Direct electric start can and will be a pain unless maintained, and may require a snort of the evil spray LOL ! I hate the stuff, but know if used in small doses properly, its ok, still don't like it much. it will cost to convert one over and you will never have the crank time to spin the diesel like a starting engine.
Definitely can be a knuckle buster, a friend in the paving business had one of these for snow removal.
These things are good to know before hand, reliable and durable old machines.
With the age of those starting engines the metal fuel tanks rust, the sediment bowls clog quickly from rust particles, the magneto's may require work, spark advance, and similar, can make them a beast to fight with, best to go through it, and take good care of it, be wary of oil contaminated oil, and keep the oil in them changed being splash lubricated. Be cognizant that the diesel on some of these, needs to spin to cool the starting engine, and its wise to run the carb bowl dry, close the valve on the sediment bowl to avoid any leak down into the crank case, not sure why some of them do this, something in those old carburetors.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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