I still use a 68. The things that made it a working machine for me, after years of frustration, were replacing the feed tines which had worn down by about a third of their length over the years and going to plastic twine. Yes, everyone says there are "sisal" knotters and "plastic" knotters. I've asked several NH dealers and workers and they all say it's hokey. The day I put the plastic in out of desperation I went from missing probably 1 in 5 bales to no missed knots. It was just poor quality sisal but it was all we could get. The old days of consistent, high quality sisal are done around me. Another thing that helped was running it faster. It had a Wisconsin on it when I got it and I was used to the speed that engine ran. When I changed over to PTO drive I aimed for the same general rpm of the baler. A friend was helping me one day and he ran the 68. He ran the PTO on the tractor at about 540 and the baler worked better than when I was "taking it easy on the old girl".
I still have work to do on it. There's a metallic "clunk" every stroke that makes the knotter assy jump a little. I have to figure out what that is, even though it's been doing it for several years. But they are a good old small capacity baler. It wants the windrow big enough to fill the throat and it wants a sharp knife and shear plate. They are slow, but they work.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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