I still use a 68. The things that made it a working machine for me, after years of frustration, were replacing the feed tines which had worn down by about a third of their length over the years and going to plastic twine. Yes, everyone says there are "sisal" knotters and "plastic" knotters. I've asked several NH dealers and workers and they all say it's hokey. The day I put the plastic in out of desperation I went from missing probably 1 in 5 bales to no missed knots. It was just poor quality sisal but it was all we could get. The old days of consistent, high quality sisal are done around me. Another thing that helped was running it faster. It had a Wisconsin on it when I got it and I was used to the speed that engine ran. When I changed over to PTO drive I aimed for the same general rpm of the baler. A friend was helping me one day and he ran the 68. He ran the PTO on the tractor at about 540 and the baler worked better than when I was "taking it easy on the old girl".
I still have work to do on it. There's a metallic "clunk" every stroke that makes the knotter assy jump a little. I have to figure out what that is, even though it's been doing it for several years. But they are a good old small capacity baler. It wants the windrow big enough to fill the throat and it wants a sharp knife and shear plate. They are slow, but they work.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Your Tractor - by Staff. Maybe you bought it from a friend who didn't know what kind of tractor it was, or perhaps (and this is every tractor fanatics dream) you stumbled across it in an abandoned field covered with weeds but intact. In any case, you have no idea what the make and/or model is. For awhile perhaps it doesn't really matter. Especially if it runs! But pretty soon you'll probably need to tinker with it a bit and maybe buy a part or too. Having a manual is nice. But how does one go about dete
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