Many of the older machines I work on have quite a few tapered pins holding things in alignment. First, if the pins your working with were pulled in with a nut, then they are going to be pretty tight. That said, a combination of the things stated thus far will get you the end result your looking for. First I have never gotten a tapered pin out of something just by hitting the side of the housing, etc it was in. Yes, hitting around the outside like that will help loosen it but rarely, if ever, will that alone make the pin jump out. So, don"t be afraid to give it some persuasion before doing anything else.
Now, put a nut on the threads, and screw it on until it is just shy of being flush. Basically that will allow you to hit the end of the pin, to drive it out, without actually hitting the pin directly and mushrooming the end/messing up threads. Now I would recommend using something softer than the hammer in contact with the face to make the chance of damage even less. On the one hand the wooden block mentioned already is a good suggestion, but only if it"s something really hard like oak. If the wood has any rebound it will greatly diminish the effectiveness of the hammer blows. The best thing to use is a piece of soft brass, or copper. I keep brass punches on my truck, and in the shop, to use for things like this and have never messed up/mushroomed anything I"ve hit with it yet.
Beyond that, all I can say is that most tapered pins are going to be a royal PITA to get out, but sometimes you do get lucky....Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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