Your chain is dull or worn out. If your chain is still worth saving, put it in a bench vice and bust out the sharpening file.
There should be a line towards the back of each tooth. That is as far as you should sharpen each tooth before tossing the chain for a new one. It also can serve as a guide to sharping. Make your strokes and hence the cutting edge of each tooth parallel to that line.
When you sharpen the chain, you always sharpen each tooth the same number of strokes so the chain is cut down the same amount on each tooth. Say 6 strokes if it is really dull. If you don't do the same strokes on each tooth, you will get what you have right now, a saw that doesn't cut straight.
When you are about half way through the life of the chain, take a flat file and cut the rakers (dull tooth in front of the cutting tooth) just a little. The cutting teeth get shorter as they are filed down and taking a little off the raker lets the cutting teeth bite better.
It takes a lot of sawing to wear out a bar. They sell a little grease gun to grease the tip of the bar, there are little holes on each side to push it in. Grease it every day you use it.
If you aren't experienced at sharpening a chain, go to Lowes and buy a new one for your saw with the correct sized round file. Learning on a new chain is much easier than on one that is really screwed up. Keep it out of the dirt and hope to not hit any staples or nails. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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