If you're happy with the red tractor support in your area and want to stay red I think I'd be looking at a 300 or 350 with the T/A. You pick up a little power (a tad bit more than 35) get the live power (nice for a mower) and the T/A so if you hit a thick spot you pull the lever and slow down. IIRC the 460 is based off of the H sized tractor, some members here report problems with the IH gas six cylinders on today's fuels when they're worked hard, the 460 would be the way to go if you want to step up to diesel which might lower your fuel costs. Stay away from the 300 and 350 diesels they were problematic as IH outsourced the engine, they weren't that good and Case IH doesn't have much support for them. Another alternative would be a 606 or one of the other IH utilities from the early 60's but again watch the 6 cylinder gas tractors, you might be running ethanol free premium in it to keep it happy (read more fuel dollars). 400 or 450 is an alternative but stay with a gas tractor on that series.
If you're open to other brands I would personally look at a Ford or MF around 40 HP so you would get 3 point with draft control, live power and hydraulics and if you shop carefully power steering and a differential lock.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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