The only 2 reasons the light switch can get hot 1) if the Switch is internally shorted to ground 2) if the switch is broken internally and passing voltage to the light circuit, but with a poor internal path to the switch contacts. Replace the switch. (this assumes the switch was in the off position) If it was in the on position the switch is broken and not providing a clean connection to the light circuit, or the light circuit is shorted to ground, or the lights are wrong and drawing way too much.
If the system worked, and the amp meter showed charge when it was working, the reversing of the amp meter has already been done.
If the generator is a Delco "A" circuit type, (as noted) it is not polarized by touching the Field ever. Touching the field with battery voltage shorts the regulator field contacts and can weld them together, or other dammage.
If it was off of a Ford automobile or tractor It could be a "B" circuit system, and is polarized the way you did it. To find out which it is, put the part number into google with the brand and read what it is.
To correctly polarize an A circuit, the jump goes from Bat terminal to the Arm terminal.
Obtain a wiring diagram for the tractor, it will be tha same with either polarity with one exception. The Ignition coil should have the lead connected to the distributor's polarity match the battery ground. If negative ground, the Negative of the coil is connected to the distributor. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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