If you were close to me here in NC I would gladly rebuild it for you. Typically damage to the rod results in a really slow 'weep' of fluid that often keeps the rod wet, but doesn't actually 'leak' like bad seals do. More than likely the problem with yours is that the seals are worn out and/or old and rotted out. I've repacked several cylinders in the past couple of months and the seals in all of them have been so old they were 'rotten' and falling apart. I did one that was so bad the seal was basically missing other than a few small pieces. Needless to say it had a serious leak.
Beyond that, it's not that hard to repack one, if you've got the proper tools to remove the head of the cylinder, and something to provide enough torque to get the nut/bolt that holds the piston to the rod. Without those things your best bet is to take it to your local hydraulic shop and let them redo it for you. Price wise I've found that in most cases the cost of a factory seal kit isn't all that much more than the cost of the individual pieces. The benefit of the few extra dollars is that you know you've got all the correct parts before you start so there's not waiting on something odd, that had to be ordered, once you get it torn down.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1929 McCormick-Deering 10-20 - by Randal Simmon. On July 4th 1998 my dad and I was sitting on the front porch when he said that he was going to sell his two 10-20's to a junk man. He said that the junk man was going to give him $500 for both of them but he hadn't received the money for them yet. So I went into the house and wrote him a check for $500 and bought them myself and said now they are mine. He had bought them about five years before thinking that he was going to restore them himself. After five years sitting in the barn, he changed h
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