My advice to you, in spite of what you stated... is don't. That said... if you're going to... you need to learn what stuff sells for in your area, what it's worth, etc. Then you need to buy them right. That means recognising what's wrong with an auction tractor, what it needs, fairly accurately pricing the job on the spot so you know what you can afford to put into it and what you can get from it. The numbers on making that work are not skewed to your advantage. Just don't get yourself trapped in the hole where you pay 3k for some old heap, dump 4k into it and find out you still have a 5k tractor because that's what they're worth at the time. You really need to know how to steal an auction tractor and when to walk away. Fixing somebody else's junk is a lot easier deal. They own it. They buy the parts. They pay you. They stop when they want to.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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