Zach - if you specify a 5" slump from the plant, it should be pretty close. A lot of times you would be required to pour a 4 -4 1/2" slump on pads, but that depends on the Engineer and the conditions. Let me tell you the crews putting the 4" slump down will holler like mad for water. Obviously the more water, the weaker the concrete. Usually, for the homeowner, if you have between a 5" and 6" slump you will be fine. If you have a slump cone, the procedure (in a nutshell) is to fill the cone 1/3 full and tamp the concrete 25 times with a 5/8" rod. Not supposed to use rebar but some do. Fill the next 1/3rd and tamp clear through another 25 times. Fill the final 1/3 and tamp 25 times. Lift the cone and measure the amount of drop the pile of concrete settles off of the slump cone. The farther it falls the obvious wetter it is. Having said that, the concrete company is usually pretty close to what you ask for. I have been involved with 1000's of yards over 30+ years and have probably only turned down less than half a dozen loads. The concrete company will usually send it a little dryer that asked for if they know someone is checking. The driver can always add a little water on site. You can get away with a pretty fair variance if it is not heavy structural. 2500# mix is fine, but 3000# mix if it requires a lot of strength or a lot of vehicle traffic. Bob
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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