I have had cattle on this farm for thirty years, and I won't trade my high tensile for barbed wire any day. My perimeter fencing is six strands of HT with electric on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th wires. Posts are heavier on the corners- usually an old telephone pole or at least a 6" pine post, cross and head braced. Line posts are all 4-5" set at 16' centers. I'm cross fenced into paddocks, with 2 to 3 wires of HT, and the posts are 50' apart. For perimeter gates- I have 6- we use a 16' standard gate. All of the cross fencing gates are spring gates with 2 insulating handles for ease in moving the animals between paddocks. If a tree comes down, we can cut it off and the fence springs back up. The only maintenance to it is to occasionally check the staples and maybe tighten it up some due to stretching. After the first year or two, it's not much to do, and only takes a couple of hours on several mile of it. It's easy to run initially, and once you learn the basics, really great to work with. The biggest thing is to build it right to begin with, use a good charger, and the cows will stay put with little trouble. There's an outfit I have used extensively in the past for parts called Kencove fencing in Pennsylvania. The have a great catalog of items with good pictures and ideas for most any kind of fence. You can call them at 1-800-KENCOVE and they'll mail you a catalogue right away. Have fun with it....
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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