Delco 27MT starter I assume. You need to ascertain if the plunger inside the solenoid is sticking . . . or if the contacts in the solenoid cap are pitted and sticking . . . or if the voltage going to the solenoid "S" terminal isn't being cut off. When you turn the key and power gets to the "S" terminal - an electromagnet pulls a metal plunger against a spring that pushes against a rocker-arm that puts the starter drive into the proper place. Once pushed all the way a button is pushed in that makes the copper contacts close and make the armature spin. The starter drive has no "Bendix." It uses a sprag roller clutch that acts like a one-way rachet. As another poster mentioned - if the starter drive gets stuck "engaged" - it prevents a sort of "back-feed" and keeps the power going even if the power is shut off to the solenoid. Delco direct-drive starters have a pretty weak drive-stop at the end of the armature that come off at times. So - your problem can be stuck contacts, sticking plunger, broken drive stop, etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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