I was interested about what that does as well. From observation of my set up and a few friends, one thing is clear, they are all different and people don't always use them the same, burn the same wood the same way.
The thing that gets me is, if in fact you do have a slight coating of creosote on most of the flue, is it really wise to put something in there that will burn hot and have it burn that creosote out ? I am assuming thats not what is supposed to happen when using the various things mentioned for the purpose, preventing it from burning.
Definitely true about keeping the flue temperature up, providing enough oxygen so it does not smolder, which even dry seasoned wood will do. I did that last week, forgot to open the vent on the door, nice 1 year seasoned dry elm in there, was smoking blue out the stack, quick little adjustment, almost clear again. I'm fortunate with this set up, I don't have to clean the flue, only getting a slight coating on the last 2 clay tile flue pieces at the top during a season. When I pull the pipe or open the clean out at the tee, on the bottom, its fine soot, and at the 90 where the clay tile flue starts, steel pipe ends, there may be a couple of handfuls of whatever it is, to remove. Part of this is that the stove will overfire easily if you put too much wood in at start up. While I do get that pipe hot glowing at times, its normally a hot fire, but not glowing hot. Boy I hate when it happens, I stand there, damper it down, it will back puff a little, cut the air and it settles right down, check the stack making sure theres no roman candle coming out. Thats probably what burns up any closer creosote accumulation if any is present. Flue temp really seems to eliminate creosote. I do use pine for kindling, yet the the flue stays clean. Talk to someone else with a stove and they have a regimented cleaning schedule, monthly or more, depending on what happens.
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