There is nothing technical or fancy with the headlamp circuit on this truck, no lighting control modules or relays. The only exception would be if the truck has OEM daytime running lamps, if this truck has DRL's the low circuit simply passes through the non activated DRL relay (w/headlamp switch on). If the DRL relay is activated or stuck on you should still see the low beam lamps come on but the DRL resister would make the lamps glow dimmer than normal.
There is a main fuse (#13, 30a under hood) feeding the headlamp switch for controls, multi-function switch gets input from H/L switch, then wire leaves the multi-function switch and goes to the fuse box (under hood), this circuit branches into 2 individual wires before the fuse box and each low beam headlamp has its own fuse (#9, 10a LH & #11, 10a RH under hood). The circuits leave the fuse box on individual wires to the bulbs.
If you have a test light or volt meter then check these wires, There is a Red/Yellow wire going into multi-function switch, this should have power with the headlamp switch on. For low beams there is a Red/Black wire leaving the switch to the fuses for the bulbs. For high beams or "flash to pass" the Grey/Orange wire should have power leaving the switch. Also the #9 and #11 fuses in under hood fuse box should have power when low beams are selected.
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Today's Featured Article - Gettin My Old Tractor Home - by Clayton Sweeney. My name is Clayton Sweeney. I am from Southern Maryland in a small town called Lothian. I am 20 and my father and I are the proud owner of a 1954 Allis Chalmers WD-45. When I was 18, I dated a girl in the next county over. Her family are tobacco farmers. It was a cold Thanksgiving evening, and we were going up to her Grandparents house. As we passed one of their barns, I noticed something orange in the corner of my eye in this old shed. It was pretty dark and I asked what it was
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