I agree with jdemaris: They are not that hard if you have the book and some mechanical experience. I do not change the fuel delivery setting at all if the pump is going back on the same tractor. You do not have to move the adjusting screw at all to clean them up after a dampening ring falls apart. I do replace the governor cage with a solid one that does away with the dampening ring. The later pumps came that way.
The hardest thing is getting the cam ring screw out. That is where you need the Straight Bristol wrench. They do sell a Torx that is ground off the "fit" but I have shattered the screw with them as the Torx had tapered splines where the Bristol wrench is straight splined. I have found that if you take a punch that will fit down inside the female spline in the screw and give it a sharp blow with a hammer straight down into the screw. That seems to help knock it lose. I don't know why the factory has them so DARN tight. That screw just has two small slippers that the advance pistons push against.
Get yourself a manual and if you want I would gladly walk you through what you need to do. With a good parts break down I can walk you through the steps in 10-20 minutes.
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Today's Featured Article - Gettin My Old Tractor Home - by Clayton Sweeney. My name is Clayton Sweeney. I am from Southern Maryland in a small town called Lothian. I am 20 and my father and I are the proud owner of a 1954 Allis Chalmers WD-45. When I was 18, I dated a girl in the next county over. Her family are tobacco farmers. It was a cold Thanksgiving evening, and we were going up to her Grandparents house. As we passed one of their barns, I noticed something orange in the corner of my eye in this old shed. It was pretty dark and I asked what it was
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