I agree with jdemaris: They are not that hard if you have the book and some mechanical experience. I do not change the fuel delivery setting at all if the pump is going back on the same tractor. You do not have to move the adjusting screw at all to clean them up after a dampening ring falls apart. I do replace the governor cage with a solid one that does away with the dampening ring. The later pumps came that way.
The hardest thing is getting the cam ring screw out. That is where you need the Straight Bristol wrench. They do sell a Torx that is ground off the "fit" but I have shattered the screw with them as the Torx had tapered splines where the Bristol wrench is straight splined. I have found that if you take a punch that will fit down inside the female spline in the screw and give it a sharp blow with a hammer straight down into the screw. That seems to help knock it lose. I don't know why the factory has them so DARN tight. That screw just has two small slippers that the advance pistons push against.
Get yourself a manual and if you want I would gladly walk you through what you need to do. With a good parts break down I can walk you through the steps in 10-20 minutes.
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Today's Featured Article - Reflections of the Fifties - by "Country" Elliott. I remember rowing up in the 1950�s in a small, rural town in northwestern New Jersey. The closest town to ours was only 3 miles away, and there were seven dairy farms in the areas of these two country towns. We had 5 acres, and because my Dad was a salesman and not a dairy farmer, he let the Bockovens, who owned the Willow Tree Dairy farm most of our land.
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