KEH: You nailed it. LOL Dad was a loyal Quaker State oil man. I was too for a number of years until I locked up a JD 5020 with about 75 hours on a complete overhaul. This was back when the oil was in the tin/paper cans. I still had the empty cans from where I had changed the oil at 50 hours. Each one of them had a 1/2 inch of wax/stuff in the bottom of half the cans. I called the parts store where I had bought the oil. They sent out a Quaker State company man. He would do nothing about the damage to the motor and just offered to replace the case of oil. LOL A case then was 24 quarts.
I was able to drop the pan and polish the crank up and replace all the bearings. It must have worked. I used the tractor for 8-10 more years and the fellow I sold it too still uses it. That overhaul would have been in 1980-81.
I switched to Kendal Racing oil after that. A local friend that pulled a hopped up super stock told me about it. I used Kendal until JD came out with the 15w40 Plus 50 oil. I have used it every since.
I never have used a pint of Quaker State oil since then.
That 1973 Pickup of my Dad's had the valve covers so sludged up that you could have driven it with them off and it would not have thrown any more oil.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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