Sounds a tad high, but you have to realize that to do it right, you need to unbolt the box and move it out of the way. And doing it right involves cutting spot welds and removing all of the old panel, then welding in a new panel. Also, undercoating and sealer need to be sprayed in from the inside through the arm rests next to the rear jump seat.
I sometimes unbolted the box and very carefully tilted it up, first on one side, then on the other. Ideally, you would remove the box completely, (not as hard as it sounds, with the proper equipment), then replace the fuel pump as a bonus while it's out in the open.
The wrong way is to simply slop the rusted areas full of Bondo.
As I said, your estimate sounds a bit high, but not everyone likes to do rust repair, and the guy may be hoping you'll go elsewhere.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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