It is still possible to plumb your 135 with remotes even it has no auxillary pump. But you do need a diverter valve in place of the transfer plate on top of the lift cover. To use both the lift and hydralic top link with out a lot of switching at the diverter, take the feed supply from the diverter to the input side of the spool/remote block, take a return to the small allen keyed bung on the left side of the lift cover, just in front of the cross-shaft. Then plumb your single acting remote into the bung on the right side, just below the diverter valve and take your spare valves to quick attach couplers at the rear of the tractor. To use, simply turn your diverter to the remotes and put the tractor in constant pumping and leave it there. To operate the 3 point use the single acting spool, use the other spools as normal. I like to use a quick attach on the line from the valve to the right side of the lift cover. That way it can be used if you need to operate a single acting ram or if you need to plough and use the draft control, it can be disconnected and the diverter switched back to operate the 3 point as normal. I have fitted this system to many 100 series tractors and it works! Sam
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Oil, Oil Filter and Air Breather - by Curtis Von Fange. In the preceding articles we discussed some of the various aspects of doing a comprehensive tune up. Hopefully some light was shed on why we do or don't do certain things pertaining to inspections and order of events when doing a tune up. Perhaps some useful reasons were given for why parts fail and what to do about preventing part failure in the future. All these tips will help us think and reason out a problem in order to make our tune up last and, hopefully, keep us from spending extra mone
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