Posted by Rdandersom on December 08, 2013 at 14:18:36 from (204.237.47.120):
In Reply to: Powder Coating rims posted by Row Crop on December 08, 2013 at 04:22:26:
I was a leadhand for a powdercoater for a few years.We had contracts for new auto parts but occasionally we would sneak a piece or two on the line at night.Sandblasting is the way to go.We tried using the burnoff oven for paint removal but it never worked well.Once the rims are blasted clean make sure the coater uses a good zinc phosphate wash treatment.The zinc phosphate etching of the metal is basically your primer.Lastly with powdercoating less is ussually better.The powdercoating is a bit brittle after it has been baked and a thin layer flexes with the metal while a thick coat cracks and lets air and moisture in.Most people also don't relize that the curing process is not complete after the powder is baked on.A couple of days sitting on a pallet will toughen the coating and make it more scratch resistant.We did cure tests with acetone rubs on the line every hour and always got some colour tranfer even on cool parts.QA advised me to let iffy parts pass if we new the pieces would sit a few days in our warehouse as they would show no transfer after 2 days undisturbed.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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