Many of the implements we use with the 8N do not have or need a PTO shaft. Your carry-all is one of those implements, a rear scraper blade is another. Any implement made to the ASAE 3 point Cat 1 specs will work with your 8N. (But some implements like your brush hog work better on a tractor that has independent PTO). The key to understanding this issue is to remember that with the 8N, The PTO shaft sticking out of the back of the tractor MUST be turning for either the hydraulic lift to work, or for the PTO on the implement to work. When you put your foot down on the clutch pedal, the PTO and hydraulic system within the tractor STOP working. If you need to lift your carry-all before you move the tractor (recommended!), then put the transmission stick in Neutral, and lift your foot off the clutch pedal. When your load is at the height you want to transport it at, then push in the clutch pedal, and put the tractor in the gear you want to use and slowly let your foot off the clutch pedal. As long as that short PTO stub shaft is turning, your hydraulic lift should work. But one added piece of confusion may be that very short lever near your right hand, kind of behind the main hydraulic control lever. The short lever is in "position control" when it sits straight up, and is in "draft control" when set horizontally forward. On one of my 8N's this lever is not adjusted correctly (or maybe worn linkage internally) and the hydraulic lift will occasionally NOT work. It needs to be in the vertical position for almost everything you are going to do with your tractor. So when it is not working correctly, I just push it forward and let it snap back into the vertical position while the PTO stub shaft is turning. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 snaps to get the lift to work correctly, but no big deal... I have lived with it that way for the last 45 years I have owned this tractor.
Check the tranny and rear end oil for water by loosening up the drain plug under the rear end housing. Do not take it out unless you want to drain the nearly 5 gallons of stinky gear oil. Just loosen it enough so that it is mostly out and you can tip it just a bit. Let a cup of oil out into a clean coffee can and look for beads of water. If the oil has absorbed water (common) then the oil looks milky, the lighter the color, the more water it has. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission (underside from where the transmission shifter stick is). Do the same thing with this drain plug. I have found as much as a full gallon of water in a normal tranny/rear end. It needs to get out before it becomes a big block of ice (can do serious damage to the transmission or rear end or hydraulic pump).
There is much debate about what type of oil to use in the tranny/ rear end. On the 8N, the same oil is used by all 3 systems and it easily moves from one compartment to another (about 4 to 5 gallons for a full change). Ford originally specified a stinky gear lube, somewhat like automotive rear end oil. But later, they changed the specs to a much thinner oil that is used in all tractors (universal tractor hydraulic and transmission oil). Do not use auto ATF! The choice of which oil to use is often debated on this site. The heavier gear oil works great when the tractor lives in temperatures of 30 F and above. And the lighter universal oil is preferred for real cold weather use. But as my tractor is worn, I do not get good hydraulic lift response with the lighter oil in summer use. So I use the 85w-90 gear oil all year and put up with it being quite stiff in cold sub freezing weather. I just let the tractor sit and idle for a minute or 2 while it stirs up the tranny oil. Do not use the hydraulic lift during this warm up time. Other owners have their own preferences often depending on their climate.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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