Also a good idea to loosen the drain plugs at the bottom of the transmission and rear end, to see if water comes out. Do this after the tractor has sat idle for several days, so the water has sunk to the bottom. Be careful you don't drop the plug into the bucket, or the whole thing will drain before you can fish out the plug and put it back in (BTDT). If it has water, drain until water stops and straight oil comes out, then top it back up. If the oil looks really nasty and old, you might want to just change it.
Transmission and rear end cases will accumulate water from condensation (and transmission will get add'l water if the rubber boot on the gear shift lever is cracked), and if you get enough water, it can immobilize the tractor by freezing the gears in solid ice. This immobilization can be a temporary condition, if you let it thaw, or a permanent one, if you get impatient and dump the clutch a couple of times trying to get it to move.
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Today's Featured Article - What Price Enthusiasm? - by Anthony West. Quite frankly, for some time now restorers like myself have become more and more concerned about the rapid increase in the prices of old farm machines here in England. There is now a growing market for "As found" machines. Which as machines get rarer, has found the birth of a new industry....one of the "procurement agent". These agents appropriate as much old machinery as possible then inflate prices at auctions. So at what price enthiusiasm? We are now seeing poor machines which 3 years ago ma
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