Basically dealt with three different cars with timing belts, Some first generation Escorts, a Mustang SVO (2.3 turbo) and a 91 Honda Accord. I bought my Escort by trading my equity away in a Bronco II (in the Air Force and headed overseas without a car), the Escort came to me at 93,000 miles, I was guaranteed by the dealer the timing belt had just been done, unfortunately he didn't guarantee the head wasn't cracked, I needed it to last about 6 weeks and it did. When I came back to the world and got a better car (the Mustang) I beached the Escort at the Farm, my brother resurrected it and drove it a year later because he didn't change the cam belt on his Escort and bent 3 valves. The Mustang ate one cam belt while I drove it, but it isn't an interference engine so no foul. We bought the Honda new in December of '90 it had a cambelt at 100,000 miles, again at 200,000 miles and at 243,000 miles (the water pump finally died) on the last one even though it would start and run I towed it to the shop. I had the belt done while they were in there to do the water pump. I figured it'd be the last timing belt in the Honda, that was 6 years ago and it's still going strong. If It's still around at 300,000 miles I might spring for a new belt. If it's interference engine and got a rubber belt changing them is normal maintenance just like changing oil, do it and you'll be okay, don't do it and you're rolling the dice on every trip you take.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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