It is very easy to be fooled when trying to diagnose a draw. Most modern cars will make that spark, and will draw anywhere from a few tenths to a full couple amps, for up to 20 minutes in some cases ! This is powering up modules and so forth, which then are supposed to go asleep and settle into a milli-amp draw. The only way I have found to be accurate in this, is to use a sensitive amp meter that allows current to flow, at least 10 amps minimum. You cant rely on a test light or the fact that it sparks to really tell you whats going on. Fluke has a good meter for this. If you exceed that 10 amps by turning on the lights or key, the fuse in the meter blows. Hook it up between the battery post and cable end, then walk away for 1/2 hour or so and come back and observe the meter reading. Has to be very low draw, as in milli-amps. A .1 or .2 amp reading will bring a good battery down in a day or two.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Basics: Spark Plug Cleaning - by Staff. Cleaning procedures: Brush or blow dirt from around the spark plug base. Remove the plug with a correctly fitted wrench. Examine the porcelain insulator and points. If the insulator appears to be melted or blistered, cracked or broken, and the points seem unduly burned it is evident that the plug is operating too hot and it should be replaced with a colder plug. If the plug is fouled excessively with carbon it apparently is operating too cold and it should be replac
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