It is very easy to be fooled when trying to diagnose a draw. Most modern cars will make that spark, and will draw anywhere from a few tenths to a full couple amps, for up to 20 minutes in some cases ! This is powering up modules and so forth, which then are supposed to go asleep and settle into a milli-amp draw. The only way I have found to be accurate in this, is to use a sensitive amp meter that allows current to flow, at least 10 amps minimum. You cant rely on a test light or the fact that it sparks to really tell you whats going on. Fluke has a good meter for this. If you exceed that 10 amps by turning on the lights or key, the fuse in the meter blows. Hook it up between the battery post and cable end, then walk away for 1/2 hour or so and come back and observe the meter reading. Has to be very low draw, as in milli-amps. A .1 or .2 amp reading will bring a good battery down in a day or two.
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Today's Featured Article - Sunday Drives - by Cowboy. Summer was finally upon us here in Northern Maine. We have two types of industry up here, one being "Forestry" (Wood Products) and the other "Farming" (Potatoes). There is no shortage of farm tractors and equipment around here! I have been restoring old Farm Tractors for the past 6 years, and have found it easier and less expensive to hit all the auctions and purchase whole tractors for parts needed. My wife who works at a local school, and only has weekends and summers off, while on t
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