I use WW 10-30 full syn. I change oil once per year because the oil doesn't get dirty like paraffin oils do due to oil breakdown with them.
I removed the mickey mouse drain plug and plumbed an extension out of 1/8" or 1/4" depending, steel pipe to a convenient place to put a drain pan and capped it off. I put a piece of cardboard with some paper towels under the oil filter to catch that slobber. Now the annual oil change is a no brainer.
I have half a dozen mowers on the place. 2 are ZT with fabricated steel decks. Others are stamped steel. One is a JD. They all have several hundred hours or so on the clock.
None of the decks have shown to be a problem, nor any wear, give some paint worn off but they all have that, nor belts wearing out either. Only thing I changed over the years on any of them was an idler pulley on the JD. Even the plastic gauge wheels are still OEM. Figured they would wear out right off but not so.
I clean out/replace the air filters at the time of the oil change. Spark plugs last forever and there are no points to worry with now-a-days.
Enjoy your "gift" and don't worry about it. Do what I said and the PIA oil change will cease to be a PIA.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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