Posted by jdemaris on September 24, 2013 at 15:58:32 from (70.192.43.251):
In Reply to: Re: john deere key sw posted by Big P on September 24, 2013 at 15:21:48:
The way you wire it depends on several things.
Is the 12SI using a self-excite regulator or a standard "three-wire" regulator?
Do you want to keep your "idiot" charge light?
Do you still have breaker-points in the distributor or has it been changed to Hall-Effect electronic like Petronix?
Do you have the original Deere key switch with the built-in ballast resistor or does it have a Deere upgrade with a separate ballast resistor mounted elsewhere?
IF you have a standard regulator in the 12SI - and you still have points - and you want the idiot light - this is how I'd two it.
The OEM key switch IF it has a resistor built into - won't work well for powering the 12SI field. If you have the Deere upgraded switch - the "I" terminal can be used. If you do that -you MUST put a diode in-line to stop the alternator from back-feeding and preventing you from shutting the engine off. Better yet -get rid of the Deere switch and buy a universal battery-ignition switch that has B, S, ACC, and IGN terminals. Hook the IGN to the wire that goes to your coil (or ballast resistor). I'd swap two primary wires around on the coil since you are using negative ground now. Use the ACC terminal to power the field in the alternator. This way, no diode is needed. The charge light gets wired in this line (ACC to 12SI fields which is #1 terminal).
The "L" terminal on your original key switch is what sends power to the headlight switch. So if you have headlights - you need to keep power to that wire, one way or the other.
The "B" terminal on the original key switch went to the "L" terminal on the old mechanical voltage regulator. Now that the regulator is gone - this needs to be wired directly to the battery positive and ought to be fused.
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