JohnT, I'm no expert, just a Bubba. However, I had an old caddy with a 61 amp alternator. After frying 3 alternators in a row, Auto replaced them free, I discovered my problem. The seat belt release never shut off. After 3 days the battery was so low, that when I got going about 60 you could smell the alternator, fried.
So, yes I would be concerned. I read the instructions that came with the GM alternator. It said NEVER connect new alternator to a dead battery, charge it first.
I have my IH C rigged up to pull my dump trailer. It's the only thing that has enough traction to pull a 10k load up a steep incline, out of the gravel pit. The dump trailer has a heavy duty battery, measured it at 1000 cca. I ran a heavy wire from tractor battery to the trailer battery and fused it with 20 amps. I watch my ammeter on tractor. When dumping trailer, I slow the tractor to an idle and amp guage goes to 15 amps. Would go higher if it were it running faster.
I would installed an ammeter to see how much the RV batteries are being charged. I may even have a fuse or circuit breaker installed to keep amps safe. I would also have a voltmeter on RV batteries.
Go to tractor talk and look at my post Bubba wants to be an electrical engineer. I posted it to show people how to make a very simple diode checker. Only one person got it.
I would install one or two of my large diodes with a heat sink in series. Each diode will drop about .6-.7volts. That way when you start out driving, the diodes would act as a resistor, reducing the voltage applied to your RV batteries by .6v for each diode. Less volts = less charging amps. I would also keep an eye on ammeter and voltmeter on RV batteries. When the batteries come up I would have a relay short a diode, by bassing the diode. That should then up the charging amps. At some point, I would remove all diodes by using a relay in parallel with diode.
Hope this works, don't see why it wouldn't.
Definately fuse the circuit and protect your alternator.
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