I don't think the OP is asking about water "conditioning", just particulate filtering which I think is WELL warranted for drip. I am a professional in golf course and residential irrigation. ANYTHING with low GPM emitters requires filtering. Use the LARGEST filter that is practical for you. One thing we do that is cocky azz is we use an irrigation valve on the purge side of a sand trap and run it on a timer system. We then purge once/day for 1min. You will never clean the thing if you do that. However, you need power and electrical skills for that.
I am sure I could design something that runs on a specialty timer from your pump power too. Single shot delay on break timer tied in with pump so it will run for 30sec every time pump turns on.
The way to get water off a pond is to NOT have your suction set at the bottom EVER. We use a T with riser where we enter the pond with 4" pipe at the bottom, come up 2-3ft, then a long T section of saw cut perf used for water well casing. Do NOT restrict it more than that. When that sucker plugs, your pump will die.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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