Posts which have been properly treated for ground contact should never rot under any conditions. But of course you are dependent on your lumberyard and its supplier to provide you with good posts.
That said, there is a "right" way to set posts, and that is NOT to pour concrete around them. You need to first dig a hole that is about a foot deeper than how deep you want to set the post. (In most parts of the country, posts are set at 42 inches, so that means you need to go down about five and a half feet.) The hole needs to be at least ten inches in diameter near the bottom. You then pour a concrete plug to raise the bottom up to the depth you'll set the posts. This plug ensures that the posts will support the weight of the building without sinking. Once the plug has set up, you set the post directly on the plug. (Some folks place an asphalt shingle between the plug and post, the idea being that the shingle will seal the post's end grain under the weight of the building; I suppose it can't hurt.) You then backfill the first foot of the post hole with pea gravel. In theory the gravel allows water to drain away from the post. You then finish backfilling with dirt, although I like to throw half a bag of dry Quickcrete over the pea gravel to lock in the post.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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