I've got a Continental diesel in a small Oliver crawler (OC3 with a ZD-129 Continental). Four cylinder and probably quite different than your's.
Regardless - heat works on freeing just about any ferrous metal parts (ferrous metal in ferrous metal). Not so good if aluminum is involved, or stainless steel.
I've had to removed a lot of stuck glow plugs. I just had the head off a GM 6.2 V8 with a plug that snapped right off. Came out fine once I was able to get close to it with a torch and heat it. Steel glow plug in a cast-iron head. With exhaust manifold bolts? Most stuck bolts I've come across had the bolt shanks stuck in the manifold. The actual threads in the head were not the issue. Again heat worked well. I had one recently where the bolt heads were so corroded no wrench would fit them anymore. I just cut the heads off. I still had to head the manifold to get it off. Once away from the had, the remains of the bolts came out easily.
Note - I'm talking about water-cooled engines. Air-cooled tend to get the exhaust manifold bolt threads stuck something awful.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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